Learning To Surf- A short story

The morning is a warm one. The sun is rising on the horizon I sit and watch the waves rising in falling in such unison it feels like they have practiced the same song and dance for generations . Rise crash fall .Rise crash fall. Over, and over. I wax my board in circular motions and start out to the water. Bam. Right away I am hit with the cold clash of water to skin like needles stinging in your arms. I keep paddling till I reach the calm past the breakers were everything is slow and monotonous, until that perfect wave comes through.  I sit and I wait, and wait for that perfect wave to send me back to the beginning so I can paddle all the way out again.  Then it came rising on the horizon like a giant shadow steadily gaining size and speed  it was upon me paddle, paddle, and paddle pop up into a pose to try to keep my balance as I try to ride this  aqua roller coaster . I rose upon the wave like the ruler of the seas on my water chariot riding through my kingdom.  It was chaos yet peace as I road across the water with surprising calm I felt the power of the wave behind surge me toward the shore .It almost felt that time slowed down while I road across my water highway to the sandy horizon. Finally the wave dissipated to foam, and I fell off the board into the water.   Whoosh another wave goes over me carrying some other ruler of some other kingdom. I get up and shake the water from my ears and start the epic battle between man, and nature back to that place of calm, and nirvana where the world seems to be still except for you, and the wave. The place where you are moving on something besides fossil fuels, you move by the organic force of motion that many people forget about but this always will show you who is in charge of the world. Not men nor women nor national leaders, but God the creator of the seas and land.  I rise up again a little more familiar with the rush of speed once you stand up on the board. I once more fly across the water to the shore. I get to shore again it is time to go in for lunch I will be back though I can’t escape that feeling of flying across the water with quiet grace like falling. It is not a loud sport all you hear is the quiet rumble of the wave underneath you as you glide across the water.