The Thrill of The Sea - a poem of surfing ,and the ocean

You rise with the sun, and sit in the sand

Your board under your arm, and leash in hand

As you rush to the water with its icy morning chill

You paddle on out to reach Mother Nature’s thrill

Here comes a wall of water crashing on down

You ready for battle as the surge tumbles down

You paddle your heart without ceasing

With your boards speed slowly increasing

You rise into the open space with greatest of ease

Completing a tradition that is as old as the seven seas

Harnessing the wave to work toward your favor

As the ride starts to end your strength starts to waver

But you turn around and paddle with all your might

To reach the place where calmness abides

This dance of water and balance is a picture of grace

As you catch a glimpse of a more holy and majestic place

Of days long ago where our hearts desires were filled

Where the hustle of today stood at a stand still

We try to grasp those days of old

But the only way we grasp them is through stories untold

Where did we go wrong?

What did we do right? To cast away the beauty and the oceans might

We sit and try to grasp the old ones memory that has grown ever so small

By those that were there who answered nature’s melodic call

So I ride my board all the day long

 To get in tune with Mother Nature’s sweet song

The rush of the waves, the thrill of the sea

Feels like a fire rising up through me

I grasp that fire, and fan the flames

Of the love affair between man and sea